I’ve cycled the Devon Coast-to-Coast route from Ilfracombe to Plymouth twice now. It’s a great cycling route (approx 102 miles) that winds its way through some stunning and varied scenery, via country lanes, traffic-free cycling and walking trails, and with a few bridleways thrown in for good measure. Here’s my account of the route (or, at least, what we did).
- Start and Finish: Ilfracombe
- Day 1: Ilfracombe to Okehampton – 58 miles (93 km)
- Day 2: Okehampton to Plymouth – and back to Okehampton – 75 miles (120 km)
- Day 3: Return to Ilfracombe from Okehampton – 56 miles (90 km)
- Suitable for all types of bicycle; the bridleway sections are short and some can be skipped if you are on a road bike.
- Google maps: Day 1, Day 2, Day 2 (afternoon), Day 3
We decided to start and finish in Ilfracombe so we used Okehampton as the mid-point of the ride. This meant a long second day of 75 miles cycling. Of course, if you return home from Plymouth, it’s perfectly possible to make this a two day trip. We had to cycle back to Ilfracombe though!
- We’re not a regular cycling club, or into any of that lycra stuff, but just a few guys who do the occasional cycling weekend.
Where We Stayed
We stayed two nights in Ilfracombe at Wentworth House and two in Okehampton at Meadowlea Guest House. In particular, Meadowlea Guest House couldn’t have been more welcoming and friendly for five wet and dirty cyclists (it rained a lot on our first day). They had a drying cupboard with dehumidifier and we used this to dry clothes/cycling gear overnight. Breakfast was excellent. Both guest houses are on the Coast-to-Coast route so there were no extra detours required.
Maps and Navigating the Route
We used this Sustrans Devon Coast-to-Coast map and there are also separate Devon North and South maps. In addition, one of our group has a Garmin Edge 800 on his bike so he downloaded .gpx routes for each day and used the Garmin to lead the ride (thanks Brian!).
- For other maps, you cannot beat Ordnance Survey and three of their Landranger maps cover the route. They are Barnstaple & Ilfracombe, Okehampton and North Dartmoor and Torbay and South Dartmoor.
Day 1: Ilfracombe to Okehampton
We started on the harbourside at Ilfracombe and the first part of the route followed the old railway line (a gradual incline) out of town. We took the coastal route via Woolacombe on this leg of the trip and you get to see some glorious scenery along the bay. Unfortunately, it rained for most of the first day – so not the best weather to stop and admire!
From Braunton to Barnstaple and Bideford is completely flat cycling, some of it alongside the River Taw, and the middle part of this day included about 20 miles with no real hills along the Tarka Trail. The situation changes after East Yarde and you can either take a longer and hillier route via Petrockstowe and Sheepwash – or take an off-road route to Meeth followed by a small section of main road (A386). We did the off-road route on Day 1 and the Sheepwash route on the return journey on Day 3. The off-road route was great fun because of all the rain and the trail was like a river as we came downhill near Meeth.
Hatherleigh to Okehampton is along quiet roads and the descent into Okehampton was welcome at the end of the afternoon. Not so great on the final day going the other way though!
Below: The Ilfacombe-Okehampton section
View Ilfracombe to Okehampton in a larger map
Day 2: To Plymouth – and Return to Okehampton
The second day started on the traffic-free Granite Way near Okehampton and the first ten miles included the magnificent Meldon and Lake viaducts before we headed across the A386 to Bridestowe and Lydford. After Lydford, there was a choice of two routes, either west or east of Tavistock. Going south, we took the eastern route through Mary Tavy, Peter Tavy (which included several tough climbs) and along the edge of Dartmoor before picking up the Plym Valley Trail for the last ten miles into Plymouth.
I missed the official route going into the centre of Plymouth but, after a quick lunch, found it on the return journey. This time, on Day 2 (afternoon), going north, we repeated the Plym Valley Trail before branching off at Yelverton and taking the western route round Tavistock. This section includes a fantastic cycling and walking trail (Drake’s Trail) across the new Gem Bridge. It’s great to see money being spent on outdoor infrastructure in this way!
- Tip: Always carry lights with you on long cycling days. You never know if you will get delayed and end up cycling home after sunset.
This was a long day cycling and I found the last ten miles really difficult so I finished the ride at about 8.45 pm. Just enough time for a shower and a quick beer that evening though!
Below: The Plymouth-Okehampton return journey
View Plymouth to Okehampton in a larger map
Day 3: Returning from Okehampton to Ilfracombe
We repeated our route back to Ilfracombe on Day 3 but took the hillier (groan) Sheepwash-Petrockstowe section instead of the Meeth off-road section that we did on Day 1. The middle section of the day included the very flat 20 mile Tarka Trail section from the first day so that was a good opportunity to rest legs (slightly) before the climb out of Braunton and inland (not Woolacombe Bay this time) back to Ilfracombe. The last few miles was a long traffic-free downhill into Ilfracombe itself. Hurrah!
- Tip: we stopped for lunch in Instow (between Bideford and Barnstaple) where there is a good village shop with home-made baguettes and sandwiches.
Overall
I enjoyed cycling Devon Coast to Coast because of the scenery (or, at least, what I could see of it through the rain) and the cycling achievement. The weather on the first day was not so enjoyable because of the rain and I soon discovered that my ‘waterproof’ cycling top is not!
I did quite a bit of training for the ride but would have liked to climb a few of the hills better on the last day. Oh well, that’s a lesson for another time.
If you haven’t done the Devon Coast-to-Coast route, give it a try! It is well signposted throughout and covers a good distance with some stunning and varied scenery.
Hi Clive
A few friends and I are planning to do this route in early September this year, just one way from Ilfracombe to Plymouth. We intend to do it over 5 days, around 20 miles a day, taking it easy and taking in the scenery. Some of us are fitter than others. We are not bothered to do it fast or especially skilfully, just to complete it and enjoy the ride. I am possibly the least fit, as I am recovering from two years of being ill.
Do you have any tips, advice or suggestions of parts of the route to definitely do or avoid? And do you think those hilly parts will be doable for someone who won’t get much of a chance to train? Are they long or steep, or both?
And any tips for things to take or leave at home? We’ll be staying in hostels and B&Bs.
Many thanks for any help you can offer.
Jet
Hi Jet
There are long sections of the route that are mostly flat (trails built along old railways lines) but there are shorter hilly sections as well. I would do the Meeth alternative route to avoid the hilly section near Sheepwash and the Drake Trail – Gem Bridge may be the best way round Tavistock for you. On the other hand, the Braunton – Bideford – Torrington section is flat along the river and Tarka Trail for about 20 miles and the section into Plymouth is a gradual downhill for the last 8-9 miles.
If you are taking overnight clothes with you, I would carry these or any bicycle spares, water bottles, snacks etc on the bike in panniers/bike bags rather than in a rucksack on your back. Make sure that you have a puncture repair kit, pumps, spare inner tubes (that fit all your bikes) and someone who can change tyres with you.
I recommend having your bikes serviced/checked before the trip and, even if you cannot train a lot, do as much cycling as you can before the ride. It’s a great route! Good luck! I’m sure you will enjoy it.
Clive
Thanks for these tips, Clive. Very helpful. I am now not going to do it this year, but my friends are still going, so I’ve passed this on to them. I hope to do it in the future though.
Hi Jet. Sorry that you’re not doing it this year. Next year perhaps!?
Yes, with any luck. I just need to resolve a couple of health problems and arrange it well, to work with my physical ability/stamina.
I support a lot of cyclists doing the Devon Coast to Coast. The information here is really useful. Most of my customers do it over 2 -3 days and require transport for themselves and their bikes from Plymouth to Ilfracombe or vice versa. I sometimes ‘cherry pick’ the flat, traffic-free bits of the route for some cyclists or those with children.
Following up Jet’s query, if you miss any sections, you will have to cycle along the main road. The A386 is not that cycle-friendly. Or, of course, get transported!
Other observations:
Some ‘off-roaders’ are disappointed by the smoothness of the surfaces which have been hugely improved recently.
If you plan to use the train services with your bike/s, try and make a reservation beforehand. (Barnstaple doesn’t offer this service and may refuse bikes on busier trains.)
Thanks for the advice Dave.
Hi Clive,
Sounds like you had a good time. I’m actually doing this trip this weekend (one way only!) and had a quick question for you. Is this do-able on a road bike with slick tyres; or would you recommend a hybrid with touring tyres and/or full mtb?
Thanks in advance.
Julien
Hi Julien. Most of the route is on-road or traffic-free trails, e.g Tarka Trail, so I think it’s mostly do-able on a road bike. I think I’d be more comfortable at this time of year on a hybrid with slightly more grip though. You don’t really need a full MTB for the route although there is a short rocky section near Yelverton, which can be avoided with a slight detour off the official route, and there is an “alternative” off-road forest track section near Meeth, which is easily avoided by using the on-road Sheepwash section of the route. Oh, and the route out of Woolacombe Bay (going south) was a short sandy track.
Good luck! Hope the weather is kind for you.
We are cycling from Barnstaple to Plymouth with 2 night stops (one at East Yarde and the second in Tavistock). I am worried that I have been slightly ambitious with the second day for my 9 year old daughter. If so can you recommend any transfer companies or short cuts for this leg of the journey. Many thanks.
Pip
Hi Pip, check out the comment by Dave Hutton above. His website is Devon by Bike and it sounds like he could help you.
Hi, I know this is an old link but really helpful thank you!! Doing the route in 2 days in June, we too are staying in Okehampton on the first night, do you remember how many hours it took on that first day?? Thank you
Rowe: We arrived in Okehampton at 5pm-ish, having left Ilfracombe at 9.30 – 10am. We didn’t aim to get there as quick as possible and some of us had slower bikes. It’s about 55 – 60 miles on the first day though. Hope this helps. Have a great trip!
That’s really helpful, thank you so much we’ll be making sure there’s plenty of ice cream stops so won’t be rushing!!
Hi
Thank you for the info
Looking at doing this route in the near future on a tandem.
I have seen the instruction to give way to all other users, constantly stopping and starting can get very tiring on a tandem.
In your experience of this ride can it get busy with pedestrians and if so which sections ?
Best
Craig: I never found myself stopping and starting more than any other cycling trip I have taken. But, on some days (weekends), the Tarka and Plym Trails could be quite busy so they are like any other leisure walking and cycling route in that regard. There are some points where they cross roads and other paths but this is similar to other trails. So, I don’t know that stopping and starting would be a problem for you …. but I don’t know if you would normally stop and start more on a tandem?
Hi
Thank you for your reply.
You tend to stop more often on a tandem as a precaution, you have much less agility to avoid problems and have to be more cautious around pedestrians. Dodging and sudden braking are best avoided.
Generally we avoid shared use tracks and ride on road, just fancied a change 😉
Best
Hi Craig, we ride tandem, did you ride this route in the end?
Pete Norman
Hi, I’m planning to do this C2C in a few weeks time. The bit that is bugging me is the thought of having to cycle from Barnstaple to Ilfracombe then back to Barnstaple! As I am planning to do the trip fairly efficiently in 2 days with a train back to Cardiff at the end of the second day, is there any quicker way I can get to Ilfracombe with my bike, other than pedaling, to save me a couple of hours?
Hi Kay: I don’t know for sure but it’s only bus or taxi between Barnstaple and Ilfracombe as far as I know. If time is the main priority, you would have to pay for taxi with bike-carrying ability. Hope you can work something out. Have a great ride!
Thanks Clive for a good write-up. The only thing I have left to ask is how long it took you to do the Okehampton to Plymouth leg on Day 2. We have a train to catch so am trying to figure out what time we should leave by.
It is a while ago now but I think it took approx. 5 to 6 hrs. I was on my mountain bike and there were some hilly sections in the middle of the route. The last section into Plymouth was a flat trail and I remember arriving between 2 – 3pm. I know that getting back to Okehampton took some time because I arrived back in the evening.
Thanks Clive that is what I thought it might take as well, so no need for a really early start. I will be riding a CX bike but will have panniers, and I will be at the top of the hill in Okehampton at the YHA to start with. Thanks for a good write-up, one of the few that mentions any timings.
OK. Top of the hill in Okehampton sounds good 🙂
For the second day yes…. but have that hill at the end of the first 😉
Hello,
I’m thinking of riding this route (from Plymouth to Ilfracombe and back). Please can anyone who’s done the route let me know if it is suitable for a road bike, or if i’ll need to take something better suited to dirt tracks?
Cheers!
James: See my answer here https://www.clivewalker.co.uk/cycling-the-devon-coast-to-coast-route/#comment-16484